Top Bar Hives

The perfect hive for natural beekeepers.

What?

A top bar hive is a long, horizontal hive with removable combs. It consists of just three components:

  • the hive body.
  • the top bars.
  • a cover.

The hive body is just a trough-shaped box with enough volume for a bee’s nest and the beekeeper’s needs. A hole in the hive body provides a bee entrance.

A top bar hive body with half of its top bars.

A top bar hive body with half of its top bars.

Wooden bars, the top bars, mirror natural comb spacing. They set on top of the hive body covering the opening. The bees attach their comb the top bars, which are removed for inspections and colony management.

And a cover protects the top bars and hive body from the weather.

That’s it! A top bar hive is a beehive that’s as simple as it gets.

Advantages

Small cell bees were transferred into my first top bar hive.

Small cell bees were transferred into my first top bar hive.

  • Facilitate natural beekeeping. Bees build the broodnest their way.
  • Less colony disturbance.
  • Minimal beekeeper exposure.
  • No heavy, repetitive lifting.
  • Inexpensive. Cost $30 versus $200 for a standard hive.
  • Produce the highest quality honey and wax.
  • No extracting equipment needed.
  • Self contained. No extra storage space required.
  • Facilitate comb rotation.
  • Easy to build.
  • An ideal educational hive.
  • An ideal urban beehive.
  • Won’t break apart when dropped.
  • Weather tight.
  • Low center of gravity. Won’t tip over.
  • Adaptable to local building materials, conditions, needs.

Disadvantages

  • Can’t buy them. Must build them.
  • Few local mentors.
  • Produce less honey on a per hive basis.
  • Can’t be disassembled to reduce weight.
  • Not compatible with standard equipment.
  • No standardization among top bar hives.
  • Comb is fragile.
  • Hard to move.
  • Need a very large tank if paraffin dipping.
  • Take longer to work.
  • Hives must be level.
  • Not suitable for large-scale, migratory, feed lot beekeeping.
  • Zero resale value.

Examples

Since top bar hives cannot be purchased, they come in a myriad of styles to reflect differing beekeepers needs. Ranging from the rustic to the ornate, they’ve been constructed out of steel barrels, adobe, recycled water heaters, plastic food grade barrels, old refrigerators, ammunition cases, pallets, papercrete, etc.

Here are a few examples typically found in the USA. Most of them are built from conventional lumber.

David McDonald.

David McDonald.

A Maryland beekeeper's top bar hive.

A Maryland beekeeper's top bar hive.

Leonard Barton.

Leonard Barton.

Keith Malone.

Keith Malone.

Wojtek.

Wojtek.

Tomas in Honduras.

Tomas in Honduras.

Michael Thomas.

Michael Thomas.

Michael Bush.

Michael Bush.

Dennis Murrell.

Dennis Murrell.

Phil Chandler.

Phil Chandler.

Barry Birkey.

Barry Birkey.

Gary Padilla.

Gary Padilla.

Shawn Hines.

Your Top bar hive?

So, what would your top bar hive look like? I bet it would be a beauty. And I know it would be the best top bar hive ever built. Because it would give you more satisfaction than any other hive. And it would be made especially for you and your needs.

Responses

  1. I have two beekeepers that would like to start top bar hives next year. I produce nucs for local beekeepers in my area but I use all mediums in Langstroth hives. How would I go about setting up to make a nuc to put in a top bar hive?

    r/

    Andy

    • Hi Andy,

      Much will depend upon the design of their top bar hives. If your frame will fit inside the hives, beneath a top bar, just attach the frame to the top bar with a couple of wood screws. The end bars might need a shaving with a hive tool, if the top bars are narrower than your frames. Then the bees will incorporate the frames into the top bar hive comb.

      Unfortunately, most popular top bar hive designs do not allow enough room for a conventional frame to be attached to a top bar and set inside the hive. A second, much poorer option, is to set the frames down in the bottom of the hive.

      The bees will treat them like a comb collapse. Food will be used. Sealed brood will hatch. They will even temporarily store nectar there. And they will quickly transition to new comb built on the top bars. Then the frames can be retrieved.

      The second option is better than nothing. But it seems a terrible waste of a good nuc. I’d rather buy a larger quantity of bulk bees with a queen than set a nuc on the bottom.

      Do you shake bees?

      Regards
      Dennis

    • in order to place a nuc in a TBH you need to cut the frames apart to fit in the hive..good pair of limb trimmers should cut the frames easy…reduce the entrance and feed if early in the yr..email me if you have any TBH questions…i build them and sell some pretty nice hives

      kenny

  2. Andy,

    Can you make them a couple packages? You could also do some foundationless nucs in the future so that they can go through the horrible experience of transferring comb to the top bars. :)

    Matt

  3. What a great selection of top bar hives!

  4. Just come across your site and thank you for such good information. There is so much to learn and I am really enjoying beekeeping, though I have only been doing it for a while. I have bookmarked your site and wondered if you can recommend any other resources that I can look at?


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