Bee Natural

How I’m thinking Wyoming top bar hives.

Criteria

I used the following criteria for a functional top bar hive:

• easily built.
• use conventional material.
• 3 to 4 deep supers in volume.
• low to the ground preventing wind or cattle damage.
• easily moved with a hand truck.
• wind tight.
• suitable for over wintering in Wyoming’s harsh climate.

Hive Body

Construction

The top bar hive bodies are built from 1″ x 6″ x 6′ lumber. These boards are glued together forming the basic building stock. Individual parts are cut out of it. And they are glued and screwed together.

First, build the bottom. Bevel the sides at the same angle as the sidewall slope. Leave enough room on the 2" x 4" cleat for the sides and the ends.

Then, cut out the ends and fastened them to the bottom.

Next, fasten the sides on. Bevel the edges, along each sides, at the same angel as the sides slope off vertical. The bevels are parallel to each other.

Finally, the entrances are cut and the hive is painted.

All my top bar hives are constructed this way. I’ve changed the dimensions and a few details to simplify construct, and to make more efficient use of lumber.

Evolution

Sidewall slopes have varied from 22.5, to 19, to 8 degrees off vertical.

The entrance was changed from multiple 3/4 inch holes in one end, to a couple of 12 inch slots along one side.

The ends, which were flush with the upper surface of the top bars, are now flush with the side walls. A spacer bar, which sets on top of the ends, provides a proper bee space and allows easier access to end combs.

Lifting cleats were added to each end.

Completed Top Bar Hive

Current Design

This is my latest hive body. The sides are three boards high. The bottom is three boards wide. The sides slope 8 degrees off vertical.

The shallower slope of this top bar hive, allows standard deep frames to set beneath the top bars, a feature lacking on my earlier hives.

One entrance in usually plugged in this hive. The second entrance provides more management options. A nuc can be run behind a follower board. And the second entrance provides more ventilation if needed.

A spacer cleat sets on top of each end. The spacer cleat is a 1 1/8″ wide top bar that is fastened to each end of the top bar hive.

Top Bars

Construction

Studs are cheap and easily obtained. And at 1 3/4″ thick, they are a near fit to a top bar width. I use a table saw to rip top bars out of 2″x4″ studs. For rigidity, I rip my top bar stock 1″ thick. Then cut the top bar width to 1 1/4″. A 1/8″ deep saw kerf is cut down the bottom center. And then I cut them to the right length.

Top bar with beeswax filled kerf.

Evolution

I’ve tried top bars at 1 1/4″ and 1 3/8″ widths. The 1 1/4″ bars worked better toward the front of the broodnest. The 1 3/8″ bars worked better toward the rear of the broodnest.

I’ve experimented with “T” shaped re-reinforced top bars. These re-reinforcements significantly strengthened the comb, even allowing mature comb to be handled with one hand. But due to their disadvantages, I’ve abandoned all reinforcements.

I’ve tried various methods:

• beeswax foundation.
• dipped, molded beeswax starter strips.
• beeswax coated wooden splines.
• plastic foundation.
• beeswax filled kerf.

I’ve recessed the top bars so that they set down on the side. This prevents them from sliding sideways. But once the bees occupy the hive, there’s enough propolis to prevent sliding. So, I no longer recess the top bars.

Top Bar Dimensions.

Current Design

I’ve settled on a 1 1/4″ top bar width. They are 1″ thick. And 22″ long. A 1/8 inch saw kerf is run down the center of the bottom surface. That provides a footing for a beeswax starter strip.

I’ve reduced the starter strip to a minimum. I fill the saw kerf with hot molten beeswax. Then I run a second bead of cooler melted beeswax on top of the first one. A slightly raised beeswax line results. It is firmly attached, runs down the center of each bar.

This top bar is easy and fast to build. It’s strong and stores readily.

I build several extra top bars and rip them into 1/4″ strips. They take the place of a couple of top bars toward the rear of the hive. These strips are inserted between top bars, in the honey storage area, when the bees want a wider comb width. And they are removed when the wood swells to allow easy top bar hive removal.

Cover

Construction

My top bar hive covers have a frame of 3/4″ lumber covered by 1/2″ OSB. I insulate them with 2″ of blue foam. They telescope down to cover the ends of the top bars. Sloped covers can be singled to water proof them. Sheet metal or corrugated roofing waterproof the flat covers.

Cover Evolution

My first covers were sloped. They looked great, provided an attic space and shed precipitation. But they required much time and effort to build.

Although flat covers are ugly, I’ve switched to them. They are fast and easy to build. They are easily insulated with blue foam board. And empty top bar hives can be stacked on top of each other.

Plans

My top bar hive dimensions.

Google Sketchup is a free 3D CAD program. It has a very intuitive interface and is quickly mastered. With it you can enlarge, rotate, manipulate, measure, section, and edit my Top bar hive Sketchup file in any fashion you choose. You can download it  here.

If you like the design, but want different dimensions. Just rescale it in Sketchup. You can stretch or squeeze it anyway you like

Different hive components are drafted on different layers which can be viewed, printed or not.

Enjoy!

Best Hive?

My top bar hive criteria and designs illustrate how easily a top bar hive is built. My hive might not be an optimum hive for someone else in a different climate.

Actually, my next top bar hive will be the best one ever for me. And if you have built a one, your next design will be the best one for you. Or you haven’t learned much from the experience :>)