More than just a bee box.
Cavity
Scott McPherson's top bar hives are designed for the sub tropics. They're narrower and the comb is shorter for better heat dissipation. And they have legs to keep pests at bay.
Volume
The hive body is just a trough-shaped box. Since a top bar hive is self-contained, it must be big enough for both the bee’s and the beekeeper’s needs. Bees will only need and occupy so much volume. Extra space beyond the bees needs provides more flexibility. It decreases the need for frequent inspections. Provides a convenient space to feed or split a nucleus. And makes a hive easier to work.
Shape
The shape of the cavity is also important. In a temperate climate, with a few very intense nectar flows, taller comb and a shorter hive length works better. The bees can backfill a larger broodnest before storing surplus honey. That insures the best possible conditions for survival during a bad season. And the cluster is in a more compact shape resulting in better over wintering.
In warmer locales, with more frequent but less intense flows, a longer top bar hive with a shorter combs is more functional. The shorter combs allow the beekeeper to harvest surplus honey, which might be inaccessible if stored only in taller broodnest combs. A cluster is a long, shallow box would have more surface area which might be easier to cool during the hottest times of the year.
Accommodations
This hive is designed for a northern climate. It's wider and deeper than Scott's hive shown above. Deep frames fit beneath the top bar. A handy feature for those with both top bar hive and Langstroth hives.
If a beekeeper runs conventional hives along with top bar hives, it’s convenient to design a hive that can use standard frames. They can fit beneath a top bar. Such an arrange allows a standard frame to be fastened to a top bar. Then the entire frame is eventually incorporated into the natural comb structure.
Or a hive can be designed so standard frames set in place of a top bar. Since frames are self spacing, gaps will be left between the frames and adjacent top bars.
Sloped Sides
Part of my sloped sidewall test in progress. Sidewall slopes were tested at 22.5, 19, 8, and 0 degrees off vertical.
It was thought that sloped sides reduced comb attachments. I’ve experimented with different slopes and found no difference. The bees will attach comb to a sidewall when more support is needed. Sloped sides are very esthetic. But they add more complexity to the construction, especially for someone with limited tools or wood working experience.
End Space
Spacer cleats are one way to provide bee space next to the ends of a top bar hive.
Additional space is needed between the end combs and the top bar hive. Without it, the bees attach the end combs to the hive body making them very difficult to remove. Usually 1/4″ to 3/8″ will suffice.
Some beekeepers manually provide that space and use it as an upper entrance.
A spacer cleat can be fastened along the top end of each end to provide the proper clearance. It’s easy to change a top bar for this purpose.
Legs
Top bar hives can have legs which:
- raise the hive to a comfortable working height.
- place the entrance above grass and pests.
- make a fantastic looking honey cow.
But honey cows are difficult to move. They are tall and top-heavy. A hand cart is useless. They can’t be stacked.
Removable legs can be used. But they require much more effort and time. And removing them creates more hive disturbance. when it’s best to work fast with as little disturbance as possible.
Hive stands are another way to get most of the benefits of legs without all the hassles. I consider them an accessory and write about them there.
Entrance
A top bar hive used to test entrance preferences. This hive had entrances on both the ends and the sides.
Bees have entrance preferences. But they are very flexible regarding a hive entrance. Bees will select a cavity with the proper size and shape. Then they work with whatever kind of entrance it has.
Beekeepers build top bar hives with entrances:
- in an end.
- at the bottom between bottom boards.
- at the top by removing a top bar and raising the cover.
- along a side.
End
End entrances work great for migratory beekeepers. And when hives radiate out from a central working space.
Bottom
A bottom entrance works great on a top bar hive with legs. The entrance is above the grass. Drains freely. And can incorporate a bottom screen.
Top
A top entrance is a great solution for a legless top bar hive. It gets the entrance away from grass and pests. If facilitates supering. And requires no change to the hive body.
Side
Side entrances are great when hives are placed along a wall or in rows.
When given a choice, my thb bees preferred a side entrance at the bottom edge of the hive body. Such an entrance provides more ventilation and a shorter travel path than an end entrance. If used with sloped sides, a side entrance is suitable for a migratory operation.
During winter, a side entrance when faced south, exposes the long side of the hive to more direct solar energy than other entrance configurations.
Lifting Cleats
Just how does a person adjust the position of a heavy, legless top bar hive? Lifting cleats are a neat solution. They can be staggered to give air space, yet allow tight stacking for a migratory beekeeper.
Without them, it’s like wrestling a large pig that bites :>)
Vertical Top bar hive
A vertical top bar hive? Check out this design. And check out the Warre’ hive. These have some very interesting natural beekeeping possibilities.
And I’ve got my own vertical top bar hive design.
